Day 1

Wednesday June 20, 2007

Depart Columbia, SC and arrive in Ely, MN

A long day at the airport and in the car getting to Ely, MN.  We passed familiar towns, reminding me of our Minnesota Border to Border triathlons.  LaVerne, St. Paul, Eveleth, Cook, Crain Lake.  I didn’t know how close Ely was to Cook, MN.  Driving along the roads seeing the beautiful scenery, I even entertained the idea of moving to MN.

At  Base camp, I saw two deer.  I stopped to watch.  One deer went into the woods, one deer started approaching me!  I started backing up, it still was interested in me, so I started running back up the hill towards the cabin. 

We got to meet our Interpreter for our 7-day adventure, Jay.  The other crew’s Interpreter’s name is Mary.  I guess we were a little envious of not getting Mary, but we try to find the positives.  One positive is that Jay is a seasoned veteran of 11 years with Northern Tier!  He was excellent at designing a route that took into account the goals for our trip: 75 miles, water quality monitoring, geocaching, seeing pictographs, and waterfalls.

We ate pizza at the dining hall with our interpreter.  We go to bed late (10-11pm), sleeping in cute cabins. 

 

Day 2

Thursday, June 21, 2007

We wake up for day 2 at 6am, well actually 4am when the new day starts breaking.  We ate breakfast at 7am--cheesy eggs, gravy biscuits, apple, donut, hot tea, milk, OJ. 

We meet with our interpreter to get our gear--paddles, life jackets, stoves, food.  The Northern Tier guidebook does not give the best impression of the food on the trail--high in carbs, food colorings/additives.  Our food is extremely heavy, but looks great!  Better than Philmont. 

We get 3 Kevlar Wenonah canoes.  Hit the water at 10:30am and paddle for about 2 hours.  2 portages today, one is 16 rods, the other is 80 rods (1/4 mile).

Check in with Canadian immigration, and get 4 adult fishing licenses.  Lunch is turkey, cheese, pickle relish, mustard, apple, peanut log rolls.

We see 2 bald eagles!

Monitored lake quality at 1 lake, about 18 feet visibility.

After our 80 rod portage we paddled 5 minutes to an island to make camp.  Setting up the tarp tent was a little difficult given the increased wind—my paddle supporting one side of the tarp tent fell 3 times.  Charles came to help.  I set one side lower to help shield against the wind.  Of course, the wind died down with the evening. 

Whitney catches a turtle with her hands!!

We have lots of laughs trying to hang the bear bag.  It took us 5 people, and about 20 throws.  One time, the rock just perched on top of the limb.

Dinner was rice, red meat, tortillas, Monterey jack cheese spread.

Thorn: We didn’t drink enough water today

Rose: We had good conversation with Jay in boat today.

All day, I paddled with Whitney and Jay (3-person boat).

In bed at 9:30pm.  Go to bed listening to mosquitoes.  Getting to sleep was rather uncomfortable given the great slope of the land an the slipperiness of the tarp tent, sleeping bag and mat.  Somehow in the end I got great sleep!  Oh yeah, there were a few mosquitoes who found their way inside to annoy me as I tried to fall asleep. 

 

Day 3

Friday, June 22, 2007

I’m hungry!  And groggy!  I’ll have some hot tea to help keep me from getting a head ache.

Breakfast--English muffins, eggs & bacon bits, hot tea/coffee/hot chocolate. 

Left camp about 7:30am.  We have 7 portages ahead of us today.

Today, there was a lot of wading up creeks, going over beaver damns.  The portages wore us out, but we worked well as a team.  We aren’t just carrying our own gear.  We pack 3 people’s gear in one bag!  So that is two bags of personal gear.  We have two heavy food bags, which fortunately grow lighter each day.  Our interpreter carries a 5th bag.  Then there are the odds and ends we must carry--paddles, 2 water bottles per person, our easy access bags (rain gear, mosquito repellant, sunscreen).  Oh yeah, we also have 3 boats to carry.  Yesterday, I carried the boat one time, and I believe that will be the last.  We girls and Paul are best suited carrying the other 50 pound packs.  I paddled with Paul today, switching out each portage who paddled bow or stern.

Lunch was Hudson Bay bread (kind of a dense granola bar-2000 calories) with peanut butter and jelly, sesame salty mix, and trail mix.  Better fill up at meal time, cause you work hard up until the next meal time.  Dinner was macaroni and cheese, sour cream, tuna, peas, onion, green pepper.  And banana bread with leftover grape jelly on top (got to save weight)! 

You cold tell we are tired today because our camp is a mess!  We get to camp on another island today.  About a mile back we had to push on to find another campsite because one of our options was inhabited.  That meant head down, dig your paddles in the water because the wind had picked up tremendously.  I asked Paul and I to paddle on the same side just to help me keep a good line and fight the wind.

Furman, Charles and I rinsed out our clothes.  We hope to swim tomorrow to clean up some more.

I love putting up the tarp tent with the paddle anchoring one side.

We hung our bear bag off the face of a cliff, not off a tree limb. 

It didn’t take long for everyone to fall asleep, I hear snoring.  Going to bed at 9:45pm.

 

Day 4

Saturday, June 23, 2007

Woke up at 5:45am to get out of camp earlier, but that didn’t really help us out!  Moving a little slowly, despite a round of Vitamin I last night.  Breakfast--nasty oatmeal, chocolate chip granola bar, OJ. 

We have 3 portages today.  Going back to the portages, we’re not just walking around a flat track, we’re walking up hills, down hills, carefully around and over rocks, over or under fallen tree limbs—with a 50-80 pound pack or a canoe on your neck!  A ritual after every portage is to check for ticks.

Lunch is cheese, sausage, pita bread, chocolate chip cereal, M& M trail mix.

We only see one group of people today on the water--3 fisherman.

Caroline Weber and I paddle together today.  We were strong and efficient team, staying ahead of alongside the other two canoes.  We, that is until the last 2 or 3 miles when we were tired and the wind wore us out.

The weather has been great for us.  Raining lightly 20 minutes on our first paddling day, then raining lightly in the early morning hours last night. 

On the water today we played “I spy” and the “Alphabet Game” with Jay, Whitney, and Furman for some entertainment.  The ABC game is ‘Where are you going,’ ‘How are you going to get there’ and ‘What are you going to do?’

We get into camp today at 3:30.  Finally, we get some play time.  Furman, Charles, and I get a swim/bath/laundry time in.  The water is refreshing.

I fish for about 15 minutes before dinner, no luck.  Whitney caught a fish at lunch and she baked it with butter and Old Bay/Yellow pepper as an appetizer.

Dinner--beef stroganoff (peas, carrots, beef, alfredo packet, beef stroganoff packet), yellow cake, purple Gatorade.

It is uncomfortably hot and muggy at 9:30pm with no wind to cool us off.  The problem with going to the bathroom to pee in the woods is that’s where the mosquitoes heard.  The buzz of the MN state bird is annoyingly loud now!

 

Day 5

Sunday June 24, 2007

Very tough day, beginning at 3am.  I have never been in a worse thunderstorm in my life.  I got really nervous.  I couldn’t find my flashlight and I wanted to put my rain gear on, pack up my sleeping bag, and get ready to run.  I finally found my flashlight.  I curled up in an emergency pose.  The storm finally blew over.  The tarp tent survived.  I did not pull out my sleeping bag because many things were wet.  I put my feet into my blue portage pack and curled up in my rain gear for the last few hours of sleep. 

Up at 6am.  Breakfast--Granola with tea/hot chocolate poured in my bowl, and an apple cinnamon bar.

The rain and ‘wet everything’ threw us off and we left camp at 8:20am.  About 4-5 portages today, two were about a ½ mile.  Caroline and I

masterfully carried canoes today.  One would carry canoe until tired, the other carry the danglies.  Then switch.  We were very proud of ourselves! 

My body is tired today and I am mentally spent from the storm.  It doesn’t help that the wind was at our faces again, slowing our forward progress.

We saw pictographs today on two different rock faces. 

Caroline and Paul each caught a fish for supper!

Lunch--bagels, PB, strawberry jelly, trail mix.

We played ’20 questions’ to help pass time on the water.  I paddled with Furman today. 

We are down to one food bag today. 

Northern Tier is very different from Philmont in that you can bury your leftover food, you have better trail food, you don’t have to set daily mileage or campsites.

We get to our campsite late.  I am cook again, with Paul.  Dinner--rice, veggies, fish, and disgusting yellow cake mix (spoiled by baking soda Jay added to flour).

We can throw the fish remains on the shoreline (rocks) for the birds to feed.  We saw 2 eagles and seagulls fighting over the fancy feast.  There is an eagle’s nest on our island campsite.  Whitney catches a snake.  There are no poisonous snakes in Canada. 

Another swim saves my day!  Church service on the rocks.  Hope for a non-violent storm.  Bed at 10:20pm.

 

Day 6

Monday June 25, 2007

No storms last night thankfully.  A wonderful day ahead of us.  16 miles and no portages.  Easy, right?!* No!  Add in a little current (against us) and some wind, and you have some tough miles in front of you.

Breakfast--nasty oatmeal (too much cinnamon or something), OJ, chocolate coconut granola bar (yum!).  We dig a lot of the oatmeal in the ground.  Or bodies would be stronger and more powerful if we ate our full portions of food. 

We stop on land to look at a 1919-1928 Chevy Buick car rusting away!  How did it get out into the middle of nowhere? Possibly by driving out onto the ice.  Remember, we are in remote wilderness, hovering between the Canada/USA borders. 

We do see many more groups today.  If you see another Boy Scout group, the standard greeting and response are Hol-Ry, Red-Eye!

I paddle with Jay and Whitney today (3 person).  I rest 1st.  I throw the fishing line to the shoreline, a few casts later I catch a keepable bass!  It is important to supplement dinner because somehow we are missing one allotment of meals (B-L-D)!  I am done fishing till later because my tackle gets caught on a rock and the line snaps. 

Lunch--crackers, cheese spread, sausage, cookies, trail mix.  Again, rationing some food. 

We paddle wearily to see some more pictographs-heron, moose, big canoe, cat, man shooting.  Mileage goals and tough conditions get in the way of having fun, we are not stopping often enough to rest our muscles.  We paddle to Lower Basswood falls and camp beside the thundering water.  We arrive at camp early (4:00pm?) so we have time to fish and relax.  Whitney catches a 26-inch pike, and I catch at 24-inch pike!  Lots of fish, so we keep our spaghetti for tomorrow night.  Dinner--fish, green peas, lemon poppy seed cake!, purple drink.

I bathein the water, then dry off completely by the blazing sun.

Jay, Charles, and Furman have a set of maps and navigate through the Lakes-Bays.  Today there were a series of Bays called the days of the week.  Sunday Bay, Saturday, Friday, Thursday, Wednesday (No Tuesday, Monday though!).  Charles uses a GPS to find our cumulative miles and to mark geocaches (eagles, eagle’s nest, pictographs, lake readings).  We get in bed early tonight (8:30-9:00pm).  We want an earlier start tomorrow for several reasons: we have a mile portage and we have to reach a large open lake before the wind gets too challenging.

We go to bed with the drone of the falls, not mosquitoes!

 

Day 7

Tuesday, June 26, 2007 

Charles wakes us up at 5am.  Ugh!  We need to hit the water early because we have a big portage to do today and we want to hit the large bodies of water before a storm/wind picks up.

Breakfast-instant oatmeal, OJ, blueberry granola bar.

We break camp and are on the water by 7am.  We have 3-4 portages today, one of them is a mile long. 

We saw another eagle today, 9 total for the trip so far.  We saw deer alongside the shore. 

The mile portages is to get to Upper Basswood falls.  We are smart and break the portage into 3 parts.  We work efficiently and strongly and finish in 1 hour, 20 minutes.  I had to pull out another Luna bar to give me energy to finish the last leg.  I was able to carry the canoes again today. 

Caroline and I paddled together in the morning.  In the afternoon I paddle with Jay and Paul.  Then another switcheroo to paddle with Charles. 

Lunch--Hudson Bay bread, PBJ, trail mix.

After lunch was an extremely tough paddle with the wind strong on Basswood Lake.  We see a thunderstorm forming off to our right, we keep paddling, thinking that it is not going to affect us.  We were wrong!  We rush to a nearby island with the campsite.  We throw up the rain fly and stand/sit under it for at least an hour!  It rains hard, it came in 3 or 4 waves, even hailing at times!

Dinner--spaghetti, hot chocolate, and coffee. 

Whitney set up her fishing rod and after 2/3 casts, I catch a bass.  He jumps off my line as I try to land him.  The flies on this island are horrible, and I stop fishing.

We build a fire to dry us out, use as insect repellant, and a place to gather to share stories.

Tonight I hear the cry of the loons.  We actually get to sleep in tomorrow morning!  Cause we don’t have many mile left and we can’t return to base until 2pm.  Bed at 9:00pm.

 

Day 8

Wednesday, June 27, 2007

Last day on the water, we are sad but relieved.  Relieved to be escaping the mosquitos and black flies. 

We wake up at 6:30am. 

Breakfast-leftover instant oatmeal, hot chocolate, Hudson Bay Bread, coffee. 

We leave camp leisurely at 8:20am.  We are about 5 miles away from base camp.  As we leave our island, we yell the customary Hol-Ry! to another Northern Tier group.  They respond Red-Eye and call us over to their island.  This male interpreter told us that his sister’s crew came and stole their paddles when they were sleeping!  An hour after we left, apparently the sister’s crew teasingly returned their paddles!

Early on, dark, heavy Canadian clouds start forming.  Jay advises us to use the islands as a windblock.  Our 5 miles quickly becomes 6-10 miles in length because we must ferry across the windy sections to the opposite bank, turn downstream and sail/surf in the safety of the landmass.  Repeat!  I start the day paddling with Charles, me steering.  At times, when the wind picks up, it is all I can do to steer.  I am practically leaning over the right wall of the canoe.  Next break, Charles and I switch seats.

Furman and Whitney get to witness a loon laying 2 eggs underwater.  She felt threatened by their closeness, she scurried about and even bumped into their boat to signal that they better back off.

We can’t arrive back to Base camp until 2:00pm, so we paddle to an island to idle, eat leftover trailmix.  It is amazing that nobody tipped over, given the wind and white-cap conditions.  We wait until 1:10 to slip off our island and return to base camp.  Jay informs us that it is competitive to see how everybody jockeys for position to return to base camp at 2pm.  When we hit the bay where base camp is, we see about 4 other crews docked on islands, waiting to be the 1st back.  How we entered the bay, nobody could see us coming in, so we had the privilege of returning, checking-in, and showering 1st!

We turn in our gear, and head to the showers.  I wash my hair and body 3 times, and check for ticks as best I can.  We put on our Blue polos and head ½ hour down the road to Ely.  Most everyone has steak on the brain.

We head back to base camp to participate in a ‘Rendevous!’  Our skit was Ladybug: Butterfly, Housefly, Horsefly, Ladybug (3 girls).

 

Day 9

Thursday June 28, 2007

We wake up at 5:20am, and hit the road by 6:00am.  Our eyelids quickly close in the van.  We have about a 5 hour drive back to the Minneapolis/St. Paul airport.  We stop by McDonald’s for breakfast.

We all eat at the Chili’s?-Too restaurant and share stories from our 2 escapades.

We get delayed at the Cinncinnati airport for about an hour.

Arrive in Columbia around 10:15pm.